Guest Post: Culinary adventures of the DIY kind

Well hello readers! I'm so thrilled to be doing a guest post over at Different Doors. Also because I'm talking about one of the biggest highlights of the Paris trip for me. For someone who has lovingly regarded French cuisine from afar with awestruck eyes, being in Paris meant three things: Eating, Cooking and Shopping for Food and Equipment. Whilst Eating and Shopping could easily be taken care of one day at a time, Cooking required a bit of pre-planning. Kitchen equipped accommodation? Check. Registration for a course at one of Paris' big culinary schools? Ah.
I trawled through the options that I read about online, and before I dive into the one I picked, here's a look at what I found:
Lenotre: Located on the ultra chic Champs Elysees, there's a course for everyone from 40-400€
Ritz- Escoffier: Uber fancy and uber expensive. Oh, and you need to book way in advance. 
La Cuisine: Probably the only place that offers classes in English, and the most affordable. 


(I left out options like truffle hunting and grape crushing because you can’t really do those in the city.)


But I chose, Le Cordon Bleu, primarily because of the brand name I'd been hearing all these years. Any chef worth his salt in India, trained at the Cordon Bleu. I'd dreamed of walking through those doors, and now I could make it a possibility. I carefully consulted their Gourmet courses, comparing it with our itinerary, and found one that was perfect, "Cooking for Friends" on the day that Charlie could go off and visit dead Parisians. There are two options while registering, the demonstration and the demonstration plus workshop. I picked the latter. The chance to step inside a professional kitchen, under the guidance of a real chef. Wow.


I paid for my course in full over a month in advance via credit card, because seats do fill up quickly. I received a confirmation and a reminder about the class over email. And finally the day arrived. After a couple of train changes, I arrived at 8:30 am on a lonely street in the 15th Arrondissement. I was ushered in along with others who were arriving to the 1st floor cramped cafeteria where we were left to ponder our kits comprising an apron, dishcloth and printed copies of the recipes over a breakfast of coffee and croissants. 

In the classroom, watching everything upside down was interesting.

The class began on the dot at 9 am. Chef Patrick, assisted by his sous chef and translator, quickly took us through the three courses of the day, jumping from one dish to another, and back again, as and when required, fielding questions and tossing jokes. I learnt an awful lot, and it was a test in multi-tasking as I tried to watch and concentrate, while furiously scribbling down notes. By 12, the demonstration was over and it was time to taste. I savored every bite, appreciating all the flavor and technique that went into the dishes.

The tasting. I'd give this a 10.

A quick break followed, during which most of us hung around the crowded little souvenir store (I didn’t buy anything, as I’d been advised that most of the limited range was available at a better quality and price at J Detou, which I later discovered was true).
Then we went on to the kitchens (where only the 20 of us who’d registered for the workshop as well stayed on), where we each had our own stove behind us, and shared one large island counter in the middle of the room. Chef Patrick watched over us, as we proceeded to put all that we’d learned to practice. 

Chef Patrick was a stickler for tidiness.

A team of assistants kept walking around, cleaning up, distributing ingredients and equipment as required, and also helping me save my venison from burning! Chef Patrick seemed to be enjoying himself as well, as he kept trying to add more and more mini lessons while we waited for the meat to cook. The mood was very light and jovial in a room full of people who clearly enjoyed cooking. We all went home beaming, carrying our steaming creations neatly packed in little bags, our freshly printed certificates in folders, and the experience of a lifetime in our hearts.

Yum.

My review on the class:
Was it tough? Very. (But probably because of a combination  of unfamiliar ingredients, unfamiliar techniques, and inexperience; one doesn't usually stew venison or work with risotto, foie gras or juniper berries in India)
Was it fun? Extremely.
Would I do it again? In the blink of an eye.
Was it expensive? Yes.
Worth the money? Absolutely.


Oh, and what of the dish I cooked? Ask Charlie. He devoured it.


Are you a foodie? Drool over a more elaborate account of my experience at Crave / Create.

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Paris Day 7, Part 1 - With the dead and the living

Today was the day Rave had her class at Le Cordon Bleu (she's going to come over and do a guest post on that soon). So today, I had to do something she wasn't going to be interested in. And there was something that was perfect - The Catacombs of Paris. I can't imagine her being underground surrounded by a few million bones. So while she left really early in the morning for her class, I had an easier morning. The entrance is at Denfert-Rochereau, very close to where we were staying at Port-Royal.

Denfert-Rochereau

If you're planning to visit the Catacombs, my advice would be to get there early. And remember entry closes at 4 pm, although the place is open until 5 pm (closed on Monday). The queues were long and they allow groups of about 15-20 at a time. Also remember that there is no cloakroom once you enter and neither are there toilets. After about an hour of waiting, I was finally inside. There's about 130 steps that take you below the surface but they're not as difficult as the Notre Dame, for example. But it does get narrower and quieter as you get down, so if you're claustrophobic, it can get increasingly problematic as you proceed.

It takes a bit of walking before you get to see anything that's remotely familiar to the pictures you might have seen online. Along they way, you will encounter sculptures made by a quarryman called Décure, who used to serve in the armies of Louis XV. The structure you see there is a model of the fortress of Port-Mahon and I overheard someone saying this part has recently been restored and opened to the public.

The first sight of the actual bones is a bit disturbing. I'm pretty sure there's nothing like this (except for the Chapel of bones I've seen online) and it's a bit startling to be suddenly faced with a large stack of skulls, more in number than it seems in pictures. And once it begins, it doesn't end. Stacks upon stacks of neatly arranged ('artistically arranged' is a more appropriate phrase, actually!) bones and skulls as far as the eye can see into those dark empty tunnels. I've read that there are 6 million Parisians in there and after seeing it in person, I think that number is a very modest count.

The entire walk takes about 45 minutes and is roughly around 2 km, although it felt like a lot less. Good walking shoes with soles that have a good grip are essential. There are some parts where the stone floor is really smooth and there's one section in particular that has water (I hope!) dripping through. One of the people with us was quite startled by it actually and dropped her camera, thinking some other-worldly whatever was dripping whatever on her hand! Luckily, the camera (and her hand) survived without any damage. The exit gets you out on Rue Remy Dumoncel, a few blocks away from where you entered. There's a store right outside the exit that offers macabre souvenirs...from ugly glittering skulls to pencils shaped like bones.

By the time I was out, it was time for a quick lunch and to catch up with the wife, who came back with goodies from Le Cordon Bleu. The evening was reserved for something I've been really looking forward to - Montmartre.

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Paris Day 6 - Off with their breath

We hadn't planned on stepping out of Paris at all when we were deciding on our 14 day itinerary. Early on, we were lucky enough to understand that there's more to Paris than we can see in 14 days. So all ideas of a quick hop into a neighboring destination (we toyed with Amsterdam for a bit!) were unequivocally erased by both of us.

Then we watched Marie Antoinette. And the idea of going to Versailles crept in. After much debate and moving dates around, we agreed to accommodate it on the itinerary. We did a bit of research and our suspicions were confirmed - a trip to Versailles would take an entire day on our itinerary.

We left home pretty early, taking the RER B to Saint-Michel - Notre Dame and the RER C from there to Versailles Rive Gauche (€6.50 for a return ticket). It was a cold, wet rainy day and it was wonderful to see the landscape change as we left Paris. The larger buildings began giving way to smaller homes and empty spaces. There were fewer people we saw outside. Along the way, our train reached the end of its line and a local reminded us that we needed to get out and hop into another train (further proof of French hospitality that we would continue to experience through our trip).

It was easy to find Chateau de Versailles once we got off the train. We simply had to follow the crowd. As we walked up to the Chateau, it suddenly didn't seem very impressive. Was this what I left Paris for? Sure the facade and the gate are impressive but where's the rest. The rest, of course, was hidden from view right now. And all through the rest of that day, we were so glad we decided to step out of Paris.

The attractions are divided into 4 primary sections - The Palace, The Garden, The grand Trianon and Marie-Antoinette's unique estate.

The Chateau de Versailles is French classical art at its best. From the extravagant curtains and upholstery (much of which has been restored or recreated thanks to the generosity of various establishments like, if I remember right, Louis Vuitton or Swarowski) to the numerous busts and figurines scattered around. Of noteworthy value is the Hall of Mirrors in the Grand Apartments. Built during the time of Louis XIV, who converted this into much of what it is today. Imagine, this was once just a hunting lodge for Louis XIII! The Hall of Mirrors is as grand as grand gets. After walking around speechless for a while, it was time to get out to catch some fresh air, especially after having my breath taken away so many times.

Is that you, Marie?

The Gardens, even in freezing winter, were an absolute delight. Unfortunately, we couldn't do too much walking thanks to the the steady drizzle. But we soon had that problem sorted out. There are nice golf carts you can hire for about €75 for the first hour. There's a lot of walking to be done, so rain or sunshine, I strongly recommend hiring the golf carts. We hired one, after leaving a driver's license as a guarantee (I don't think any cop is going to want to see your license anywhere inside) and headed out to see the rest of the place. The Grand Trianon is beautiful...pink and white marble, smaller less opulent rooms, including the games room that resembled the one from the movie. We didn't spend too much time here because we were keen on seeing Marie-Antoinette's freakish little hamlet.

I wonder what he was thinking of.

There's a lot of walking to be done.

Nap, anyone?

And what a hamlet that was! It seemed like it was a painting come to life. Everything, dirt included, was perfectly in place. Maybe it seemed that way because we haven't seen a European hamlet before but this seemed picture perfect. The little stream, the bridge, the homes, the rickety crumbling staircase...even the birds flying around seemed to be deliberately planted in their respective spots!

After a long tour of the Estate and the rest of the gardens, we dropped off our golf cart and headed out of the Chateau. Along the way, we stopped for a late Italian lunch before getting our train back to Paris. I'd definitely like to see Versailles when the gardens are in bloom. And with that promise, we waved goodbye to Marie and Louis (however many there are!).

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Paris Day 5 - Leonardo and William

So today is the day we visit a landmark that isn't just synonymous with Paris but is also perhaps the first name people come up with when they think art and museums - Musée du Louvre. The Louvre is about 60,000+ square metres large and while it actually is possible to walk through it in a day, it's impossible to see everything. I was very clear that I wasn't even going to try! I planned on hanging around with the Greeks, Romans and a few Renaissance artists. Unfortunately, the rest will have to be put off until a later trip.

After the wait at Musée d'Orsay, we decided to get to the Louvre earlier than we initially planned to. We got there a little after 9 am and there were no huge crowds to deal with. There are three entrances to Musée du Louvre - the main entrance directly through the glass Pyramid, one from the Carrousel du Louvre (the shopping mall underneath the Louvre that houses a McDonald's...yes, the one that you just cringed at!) and from Porte des Lions (which was shut when we got there because of some work that was happening). If the crowds aren't too intimidating, walk in through the Pyramid. I've heard many Parisians can't stand it but I personally thought it's a nice contrast to everything that surrounds it.

Musée du Louvre is huge and comprises 3 wings - Richelieu on the left, Sully in the centre and Denon on the right. Richelieu houses the Oriental Antiquities, Sully the French and Greek and Denon is Italian and French. Remember to check in stuff - if it's winter and you're wearing jackets, check them in near the Richelieu Wing, or you have heavy baggage, check them in under the Pyramid to the right of the Denon Wing (if you can, stuff your jackets into your bag and check everything here). There's quite a bit of walking to be done and you don't need anything heavy on you (it's also warm inside, so don't worry about wearing jackets).

There were a few pieces we were sure we wanted to spend time with (surprisingly, the Mona Lisa wasn't one of them!). As we walked through the Roman and Greek sections, we caught a glimpse of The Winged Victory of Samothrace at the Daru staircase but we were going to catch it later, so we continued on until we reached Venus de Milo. Ok, time for a little truth. It's a beautiful piece but I just can't honestly say it's the best. Not even as compared to others from the same era. There, I've said it! But before I get slayed, let me quickly add that this is just the opinion of one who isn't an art or history aficionado. This is just my regular everyday Joe (or Some Charlie) take on Venus. I did give Venus her time, though. I stood around trying to genuinely understand why it's such a talked about piece. From the slightly twisted stance, to the angle of the shoulders, to the view from the right...I just didn't get it, pardon my ignorance. I kept wondering what would happen if Venus was replaced by one of the other pieces from the exhibit, would people still gush over it? What if there were decades of praise surrounding that piece instead of Venus? Would they appreciate that one more and leave Venus behind along with one of the other pieces in a corner? I guess we'll never know. But I'm going to give Venus another chance on my next Paris trip. I'm sure the millions who adore her do so for a reason.

The next 'big ticket' item was The Winged Victory of Samothrace. I can't think of a better place than the Daru staircase for this piece. At first sight, I felt how I did when I first saw Venus de Milo. But this one grows on you. As you walk around you begin seeing more...the wind blowing against the contours of her body, the stance, the angle at which she leans forward, the detail on the wings. It seems like she might just flap those wings and take a little flight around the Museum for a while.

The Daru staircase

Next, da Vinci. Yes, I did see that famous one of the woman with the 'enigmatic' smile but there were two other pieces that I really loved. John the Baptist and Bachus. There's something eerie about them. The slightly manic expressions, that weird smile, the finger. With the million da Vinci conspiracy theories going around, you're tempted to look deeper and search for symbolism. I did that too for a while until I figured it's pointless wasting time that's much better spent enjoying the work.

From here, we finally walked into the room housing the Mona Lisa, possibly the most crowded room in the entire Museum. I was actually more interested in the gigantic Wedding Feast at Cana that hangs directly opposite the Mona Lisa. I didn't imagine it would be so big. So as I kept walking backwards to see it from a distance, I encountered a bunch of Japanese tourists. They were a little intrigued why I was looking away from the Mona Lisa instead of at it. So a couple of them looked in my direction for a second, possibly told themselves I was mad and turned back, cameras held overhead, to Mona Lisa.

Somewhere out there, she's there.

The Wedding Feast at Cana

After walking through the rest of the Denon Wing, we decided to stop and head out of the Museum. We were getting what we call museum syndrome...there's only so much you can absorb and after a while, you're just looking at stuff without actually seeing it. We walked out through the Richelieu Wing, stopping only briefly to see a few displays. That was all we could take of the seriously overwhelming Musée du Louvre. We will be back to visit the Louvre on our next trip...primarily for the Richelieu Wing that's also of special interest to me. But to try and cram it all in one visit just isn't worth it.

Under the Pyramid

We weren't really tired, just a little numb from seeing so much. And Paris has a perfect antidote to numbness - walking. We took a walk along the river to Shakespeare and Company on the Left Bank. Sylvia Beach's bookstore was a haven for a few literary greats I've read. This was the birthplace of Ulysses. We lost ourselves for a while inside the bookstore, while a young girl practiced piano next to us.

The fountain outside the bookstore

That was the end of a packed day. This first trip to Paris is increasingly beginning to feel like a little wine tasting expedition. We're just sampling a bit of what Paris has to offer, so we can come back for long leisurely glasses of what we like in the many visits that will surely follow.

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Paris Day 4 - Looking for Quasimodo

There's one place in Paris that's really special to me. A place I first heard about as a child, reading about a certain hunchback and the towers. Over the years, as I continued seeing pictures of it and reading up on its history, the fascination grew. But nothing, absolutely nothing, prepared me for the first time I set my sights on it. It was as if the illustrations from that old Victor Hugo book from my childhood suddenly came alive.

Every time I walked past the Notre Dame for the rest of my trip, I stopped and gazed longingly, much to Rave's growing worry that I might just decide to spend a few years at its footsteps! Given the chance, I'd gladly do it!

We began the day much like the others that would follow, grabbing breakfast from the bakery downstairs and eating it while we walked to the RER Port-Royal. It was a particularly cold morning and that walk from RER Saint-Michel - Notre Dame to the cathedral was pretty swift! Thankfully, there weren't too many visitors around when we got there.

I could stand here all day.

As you approach the Notre-Dame, one of the first things you encounter is Point Zero, considered the official centre of Paris. Except us, it didn't seem like a big deal to the rest of the people around.

The detailing on the entrance is really intricate. There's so much to see and I wished I had my long lens fitted on my camera so I could get a closer look at the work. The Kings of Judah were there, as was the devil weighing souls on judgement day and the unmistakable St. Denis holding his own head.

St. Denis holding his head.

The weighing of souls.

Inside, it was gothic architecture all through. I will never forget the first view as I stepped in. You don't really get a sense of how big it is when you're standing at the entrance. It was magical...the ceiling that seemed like it was impossibly tall, the blue light coming through the windows, the music that seemed to be coming from some faraway place (or was that just the sound in my head?).

Not a patch on the real thing.

I hate doing this but everything was perfect for this shot.

There's no photograph that can catch these beautiful windows.

It was so quiet when we were there, we could hear our footsteps as we walked. Although I was raised a Catholic, I'm not religious and do not believe in the concept of god. But there's something about Notre Dame that tells you there possibly is something more to it than stone and glass.

Although I could have easily stayed inside longer, we had to head out because we were planning on climbing up the towers. And boy, was it cold! We waited for close to an hour in line and it was really windy! We actually braved it out to the very end and began the long climb up. It's 400-odd steps on a winding staircase that never seems to end. If you have climbing disabilities, my advise would be to avoid the climb. There are people behind you on the narrow staircase and it's almost impossible to stop and catch your breath. There are also very few alcoves where you can stop and rest and most of them can just about fit one person. So if there's someone already resting there, you have no option but to walk on. But for those who can make it, it's worth every step on that staircase! For now, I'll let the pictures do the talking.

Quasi, get here right now!

How does everyone look so stylish down there?

Sacré Coeur in the distance.

Hello beautiful!

So this is where the music was coming from.

If I lived in Paris, I would visit the Notre Dame every day. I really mean it! And without a doubt, I'm sure I will feel exactly how I did when I first saw it. 

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